Roast Duck with Cherry Sauce

Trim and score the duck. Pull any large pads of fat out of the cavity by hand. Using kitchen shears, snip off the excess neck skin, the tail and the first two segments of each wing, leaving just the drumette. With the duck breast side up, score the skin and fat in a tight crosshatch, cuts about 2 cm apart, using just the tip of a sharp knife - cut only through the skin and fat, never into the meat below. Flip the duck breast side down and cut parallel slits, also about 2 cm apart, through the skin and fat of each thigh (no crosshatch here).

Salt and chill uncovered. Rub 1 tsp of the fine salt into the cavity, ½ tsp into the breast (working it well into the scored slits), and the remaining 1½ tsp over the rest of the skin. Overlap the cavity skin by at least 1 cm and pin it shut with a sturdy toothpick. Set the duck on a large plate and refrigerate uncovered for 6-12 hours - the open fridge air dries the skin so it crisps later.

Poach to render the fat. Set the duck breast side up in a large Dutch oven and add water, about 1.4 litres, until at least half of the thighs are submerged but most of the breast stays clear. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a vigorous simmer and cook uncovered until a thermometer pushed into the thickest part of a drumstick, right to the bone, reads 63-71°C, 45 minutes to 1 hour 5 minutes. About 20 minutes in, set a rack in the lower-middle of the oven and heat it to 220°C (200°C fan). Stir the maple syrup and soy sauce together for the baste.

First roast, skin side out. Lift the pot off the heat. Crumple a 50 cm length of foil into a loose ball, flatten it a little in a roasting pan, and set a V-rack on top; spray the rack with vegetable oil. Lift the duck from the pot with tongs and a spatula, let it drain, and set it breast side up on the rack. Brush the breast and drumstick tops with about a third of the baste, then flip the duck and brush the rest over its back and sides. Pour the poaching liquid into a bowl to cool (skim and keep the fat and stock for another use if you like). Roast until the back is deep golden and the breast reads 60-66°C, about 20 minutes.

Finish breast side up and rest. Flip the duck breast side up again and keep roasting until the breast reads 71-74°C, 15-25 minutes more. Move it to a carving board and rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Make the cherry sauce. While the duck rests, whisk the sauce's maple syrup, vinegar, soy sauce, cornstarch and the ¼ tsp pepper together in a small saucepan. Add the thyme sprig and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, then keep stirring for about 2 minutes more until it thickens. Stir in the cherries and cook, stirring now and then, for 3-5 minutes, until the sauce has the consistency of maple syrup. Discard the thyme, taste, and season with the extra salt and pepper as needed.

Carve and serve. Transfer the sauce to a serving bowl. Carve the duck and serve right away, passing the cherry sauce on the side.