Raspberry Jam-Filled Berliner Doughnuts

Make a silky dough. Stir the flour, sugar, yeast and salt together, pour in the warm milk and egg and knead for 5 min. Work in the softened butter bit by bit, then knead 6-8 min longer until the dough looks silky and comes away cleanly from the bowl. A well-developed dough traps the gas that makes these so light.

First rise. Cover and set aside in a warm spot for 1-1.5 h until doubled.

Stamp out rounds. Knock the dough back, roll it 1.5 cm thick and cut 8 cm rounds without a hole. Press the trimmings together and roll once more so you have 12. Space them well apart on the oiled paper, since they spread as they prove.

Second rise. Lay a sheet of cling film loosely over the top and prove for 40-50 min. They are ready once they look risen, soft and pillowy.

Bring the oil to temperature. Fill the heavy pan with about 4 cm of oil, no more than half its depth, and heat to 170 °C. A slightly lower heat than for rings gives the thicker rounds time to cook through before they brown too much.

Fry until golden. Cook 3 at a time for about 2 min per side, keeping the oil between 165 and 175 °C. Each should be evenly golden with a pale band round its waist and read about 90 °C in the middle. Drain on the rack, then let them cool for 15 min so the crumb sets before filling.

Pipe in the jam. Push a chopstick into the side of each doughnut to the centre and twist gently to open a pocket. Pipe in about 25 g jam per doughnut, stopping when it feels heavier and a little jam peeps out of the hole.