Persian Herb, Lamb and Kidney Bean Stew with Dried Lime

Brown the lamb. Season the lamb with the stew salt and pepper. Heat the 2 tbsp oil in the casserole over medium-high heat and brown the lamb in 2 batches for 6-8 min each, then set aside. Good colour on the meat builds a savoury base for the long simmer.

Start the stew. Lower the heat to medium and cook the onion for 8-10 min, until soft and golden at the edges. Stir in the turmeric for 30 s, then return the lamb and its juices with the 1 litre water, scraping up the browned bits. Bring to the boil, cover, lower the heat and simmer gently for 1 h.

Soak the limes. Meanwhile, soak the dried limes in warm water for 30 min, keeping them submerged with a small plate. Once softened, pierce each one 5-6 times with a fork so the sour juice can flow into the stew.

Prepare the herbs. Wash the herbs and spin them very dry. Chop the parsley and coriander very finely in the processor in batches, but chop the chives and spring onions by hand. Their hollow, juicy stems turn to mush in a processor.

Fry the herbs patiently. Heat the 4 tbsp herb oil in the frying pan over medium heat, add the chives and spring onions and stir for 2 min. Add the parsley and coriander, crumble in the fenugreek and cook for 18-20 min, stirring often, until very dark green and dry and green oil appears when you press them with a spoon. Turn the heat down if they begin to catch; this slow frying concentrates their flavour and colour, which defines the dish.

Simmer until thick. Once the lamb has had its first hour, stir in the fried herbs, beans and pierced limes, pushing the limes under the liquid. Cover and simmer gently for 1 h-1 h 15 min, stirring every 20 min, until the lamb is very tender and the stew is thick. If it looks watery, uncover for the last 15 min to let it reduce.

Cook the rice. About 30 min before the stew is ready, rinse the rice until the water runs clear. Put it in the saucepan with the 600 ml water and rice salt, bring to the boil, cover and cook on the lowest heat for 15 min, then rest for 10 min off the heat so the grains firm up and separate.

Finish and serve. Press 2-3 of the softened limes with the back of a spoon to release their sour juice, then stir in the saffron water. Taste, adding lime juice if it needs more tang, and serve with the rice and yoghurt.