Molten Chocolate Cakes

Prepare the moulds. Butter the pudding moulds thoroughly, then dust with the cocoa powder and tap out the excess. This thorough prep matters because the cakes are delicate and will only turn out cleanly if the moulds are properly coated.

Melt the chocolate and butter. Melt the butter and chocolate together in a heatproof bowl set over barely simmering water, stirring until smooth, then leave to cool for 5 minutes. Melting them together gently keeps the mixture glossy and stops the chocolate from seizing.

Whisk eggs and fold together. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, sugar and salt on high speed for 4-5 minutes until pale and thick. Fold in the cooled chocolate mixture, then fold in the flour just until no streaks remain. Folding the flour in minimally keeps the cakes tender rather than tough, since overworking develops gluten that fights the soft centre.

Fill the moulds. Divide the batter evenly among the moulds. They can be chilled for up to 24 hours at this point if making ahead; just add 2 minutes to the baking time to allow for the cold start.

Bake until set at the edge. Heat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan) for at least 20 minutes with a baking tray inside to heat up. Bake the cakes on the hot tray for 9-11 minutes, until the sides are set and firm but the centre is still visibly soft and wobbly when the mould is gently shaken. The very high heat cooks the outside quickly while the centre stays molten, which is the whole point of the dish.

Turn out and serve. Rest the cakes for 1 minute, run a thin knife around the edge of each mould, then turn them out onto plates. Serve immediately with a scoop of ice cream, before the molten centre has a chance to firm up. Because the centre is deliberately undercooked, it still contains lightly cooked egg, so use eggs from a source you trust and avoid serving this dish to anyone who is pregnant, very young, elderly or has a weakened immune system.