Jalebi: Crisp Fermented Batter Spirals in Saffron Syrup

Mix the batter. Whisk the plain flour, gram flour, cardamom and saffron together in the bowl. Whisk in the yoghurt, lukewarm water and food colouring if using until smooth, thick and falling from the whisk in a ribbon.

Ferment overnight. Cover the bowl and leave it somewhere warm for 12-24 h. It is ready when the top is dotted with bubbles and it smells pleasantly sour; the fermentation gives jalebi their tang and crisp, airy texture. Whisk briefly before using.

Make the syrup. Bring the sugar, 230 ml water, saffron, cardamom and lime juice to the boil, then simmer until it reaches 107-110 °C and feels slightly tacky between two fingers. Add the rose water if using and let it cool to 65-70 °C, then hold it there. Syrup that is too hot softens the jalebi; too cool and it will not soak in.

Heat the oil. Pour oil into the wide pan to about 2.5 cm deep and heat to 165 °C. A shallow layer at a moderate heat lets the spirals cook through and crisp before they brown.

Pipe the spirals. Fill the piping bag and pipe 7-8 cm spirals directly into the oil, 3 or 4 at a time, working from the outside and finishing in the centre. Keep the bag moving steadily so the ropes stay even.

Fry until crisp. Fry for 45-60 s on each side, turning once with tongs, until crisp and lightly golden. Keep checking that the oil stays at 165 °C between batches.

Soak and serve. Lift each jalebi out, shake off the oil and drop it into the warm syrup for 30 s, pressing gently so it fills the hollow ropes. Set on the rack and repeat with the rest; serve warm or at room temperature the same day.