Chewy Tapioca Cheese Rolls

Make the hot starch paste. Tip the tapioca starch, salt and baking powder into the mixer bowl. Bring the milk, oil and butter to a full boil in the saucepan, then pour it over the starch with the mixer running on low and beat for 3 minutes until you have a lumpy, glossy paste. The boiling liquid instantly gelatinises the tapioca starch, and that reaction is exactly what gives these rolls their stretchy, chewy bite.

Cool to warm. Leave the paste for 5 minutes until it feels warm rather than hot to the touch. This pause matters because eggs stirred into a hot mixture will start to cook and scramble, losing their power to bind and lighten the dough.

Beat in the eggs. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing on low for 6-8 minutes and scraping down the bowl once or twice, or beating hard by hand for 8-10 minutes. Keep going until the dough turns smooth, shiny and sticky, and clings to the side of the bowl rather than sitting in a puddle. Thorough beating develops the egg proteins fully, which traps steam and is what makes the rolls puff up in the oven.

Fold in the cheeses. Mix in the Parmesan-style cheese and mozzarella until they're evenly spread through the dough. Both cheeses melt as the rolls bake, adding savoury flavour and helping the crust turn a deep golden colour.

Chill the dough. Press cling film directly onto the surface of the dough and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight. Chilling firms up the sticky dough so it's far easier to roll, and gives the tapioca starch more time to fully hydrate.

Shape the rolls. Heat the oven to 230°C (210°C fan). With lightly wet hands, roll the dough into 16 smooth balls of about 55g each and space them out on the lined tray. Damp hands stop the sticky dough sticking to your fingers, so you get neat, even balls.

Glaze and bake. Brush each ball with the beaten egg glaze, then put the trays in the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 190°C (170°C fan). Bake for 25-30 minutes, turning the tray halfway, until the rolls are well puffed, deep golden and crisp on the outside. The initial blast of heat kick-starts a strong rise, and the lower temperature that follows bakes them through without scorching the crust.

Cool and serve. Let the rolls cool for 10 minutes on the wire rack before serving them warm. This short rest allows the soft, cheesy centre to set slightly so the rolls hold their shape when you bite in.