Ukrainian Borscht with Beef, Beetroot and Cabbage

Make the broth. Put the beef, halved onion, carrot chunks, bay leaves, 0.5 tsp salt and 2400 ml water in the casserole and bring to the boil over high heat. Lower to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for about 2 hours, skimming off any foam, until the beef pulls apart easily with a fork. Slow, gentle cooking melts the tough connective tissue in chuck, which gives both tender meat and a full-bodied broth.

Prepare the beef. Lift the beef onto a board and discard the onion, carrot and bay leaves. Once it is cool enough to handle, cut or pull the meat into bite-size pieces. Skim the fat from the broth and set 120 ml of it aside for the vegetables.

Cook potatoes and cabbage. Bring the remaining broth back to the boil, add the potatoes, cabbage and 0.75 tsp salt, then cover and simmer gently for 8-10 minutes until the potatoes are just tender. The potatoes should still hold their shape, as they will cook a little more later.

Build the beetroot base. While the potatoes cook, heat the oil in the frying pan over medium heat and soften the chopped onion for about 5 minutes. Add the beetroot, grated carrots and 0.5 tsp salt and cook, stirring, for 3-5 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée for 1-2 minutes until it darkens, then add the reserved 120 ml broth and scrape the pan. Frying the tomato purée concentrates its savoury flavour and helps fix the bright colour of the beetroot.

Bring it together. Stir the beetroot mixture and the beef into the pot and simmer for 5 minutes, until the soup is deep red and piping hot. A short simmer lets the flavours mingle without dulling the colour.

Brighten and serve. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the dill and lemon juice, then taste and add a little more lemon if you like it sharper. Serve with a spoonful of soured cream and extra dill. The acid balances the sweetness of the beetroot and keeps its colour vivid.