Thin Spiced Lamb Flatbreads with Sumac Onion, Parsley and Lemon

Make the dough. Between 16 hours and 2 days ahead, pulse the flour and yeast in the food processor, then, with the motor running, pour in the cold water and process for about 10 seconds until no dry flour remains. Rest for 10 minutes, add the oil and salt and process for 30-60 seconds until a shaggy ball forms. The rest lets the flour absorb the water, so the dough comes together quickly without overheating in the machine.

Ball and chill. Knead for 1 minute on a lightly oiled worktop, divide into 8 pieces of about 80g and shape into tight balls. Set them on an oiled tray, cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 16 hours and up to 2 days, until slightly puffy. Cold, slowly risen dough is relaxed and easy to roll very thin.

Blend the topping. Process the red pepper, onion, garlic, tomato paste, parsley, paprika, cumin, allspice, cayenne, salt and pepper until almost smooth, scraping down the bowl. Add the lamb and pulse 8-10 times until evenly mixed into a soft paste, then keep it covered in the fridge for up to 24 hours. A fine, spreadable paste cooks evenly in a thin layer; wash the processor and your hands after handling the raw meat.

Preheat the stone. Take the dough out of the fridge 1 hour before baking. Put the stone or steel on the upper-middle shelf and heat the oven to its maximum, at least 260°C (fan 240°C), for 45 minutes. The heat stored in the stone crisps the thin base in minutes; an oven thermometer helps confirm the temperature.

Roll and spread. On a lightly floured surface, roll a ball into a very thin 23cm round and lay it on a floured sheet of baking paper on the peel. Spread about 4 tbsp of the lamb paste, one-eighth of the total, in a thin, even layer to 5mm from the edge, pressing it on with your fingertips or the back of a spoon. Keeping the layer thin ensures the meat cooks right through in the short bake.

Bake until sizzling. Slide the flatbread, on its paper, onto the stone and bake for 5-7 minutes, until the edges are golden and crisp and the meat layer is browned and sizzling. The meat must be cooked through everywhere, with the thickest spot reading 71°C on the probe; give it 1-2 minutes more if needed. Shape the next one while each bakes, baking two at a time if your stone is large.

Keep them soft. Stack the baked flatbreads under a clean tea towel as you go. The trapped steam keeps them pliable enough to roll without cracking.

Serve rolled. Toss the red onion with the sumac and chopped parsley. Scatter some over a warm flatbread, squeeze over lemon and roll it up to eat. The tangy sumac and lemon cut through the richness of the spiced lamb.