Matzah Ball Soup with Chicken and Dill

Start the broth. Put the chicken pieces, water, onion, roughly chopped carrots and celery and 1.25 tsp salt in the casserole and bring to the boil over high heat. Lower to a gentle simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes, skimming off any scum, until the thickest part of the breasts reads 74 °C. Pulling the breasts as soon as they are cooked keeps them juicy rather than dry and stringy.

Simmer for flavour. Lift the breasts onto the plate. Add the dill sprigs, peppercorns and cloves, cover and simmer gently for 1 hour more. Lift the legs onto the plate and discard the wings and back, then strain the broth and skim off the fat, keeping 3 tbsp if you want to use it in the matzah balls. The extra hour draws flavour and body from the bones and dark meat.

Mix the matzah balls. Whisk the eggs, oil or chicken fat and sparkling water in the bowl, then stir in the matzo meal, 0.5 tsp salt and baking powder. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour, until firm. Chilling lets the matzo meal absorb the liquid so the balls hold together, while the bubbles and baking powder keep them light.

Shred the chicken. While the mixture chills, discard the chicken skin and bones and shred the meat into bite-size pieces with the forks. Keep it covered so it does not dry out.

Cook the matzah balls. Bring 4 litres of water and 1 tsp salt to the boil in the wide saucepan. With wet hands, roll the mixture into 12 balls about 4 cm across and drop them into the water. Cover, lower to a lively simmer and cook for 30 minutes, until puffed and cooked right through to the centre. Cooking them separately keeps the broth crystal clear.

Cook the vegetables. Bring the broth back to a simmer, add the chopped carrot, parsnip and celery and cook for about 10 minutes until tender. Stir in the shredded chicken and heat until piping hot.

Serve. Lift the matzah balls into bowls with the slotted spoon, then ladle over the broth, chicken and vegetables. Scatter with chopped dill and serve straight away.